Chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas has been making waves in downtown Panama for well over a decade. There was the destination restaurant Donde José, which opened in 2014. It garnered a cult following and a table at the tiny 12- seater tasting menu locale was the hot ticket in town. It had to close during the pandemic, but José and the team have charged back onto the scene with the award- winning Fonda Lo Que Hay, so that now a visit to Panama is hardly compete without a visit to the eatery that now ranks in the prestigious list of 50 Best Latin American restaurants. It’s nestled in the heart of the charming Casco Viejo quarter, just round the corner from the old restaurant, and opposite a new bar they’ve opened, Barcito de Enfrente- literally the little joint opposite. The bougainvillea strewn alleyways are easy to get lost in, but don’t worry everybody knows where Fonda Lo Que Hay is.
They only reserve 30% of the tables, keeping the neighbourhood, walk- in vibe alive. In Panama, a Fonda is a roadside, inexpensive food- stop kind of place, and Lo Que Hay means that “there is what there is”. All the food is super fresh every day so once it’s gone it’s gone, but try and get your hands on the Caribbean Ceviche, the Cassava Tostada, the Sexy Clams, and the grilled Octopus with green curry and you won’t be sorry. Maybe even leave a night or two free as we had to go back to finish off the menu.
José has a soft spot for the Aussies too, “I love Australia!,” he told Irresistible, having lived down under for 2 years in his early cooking days, with stints at Icebergs in Sydney and Attica in Melbourne. He also worked at the legendary but no more Barrio Chino and Lucio’s.
José wants to bring “the Panamanian food gospel to the rest of the world.” He teamed up with the well- known Los Angeles restauranteurs Louie and Netty Ryan to open Si! Mon in Venice Beach at the end of 2023. Si!Mon is a very Latin American way of saying “right on” or “yeah”, and so far the reviews are exactly that- high end Panamanian cuisine at the centre of L.A.- right on! Irresistible will be there to review soon.
Fonda Lo Que Hay,
Calle Jose Obaldia,
Planta Baja,
Casco Antiguo,
Ciudad de Panama.
Mo: Closed
Tue to Sun: 12pm – 11pm
But back in Panama City, if you find yourself needing somewhere to stay while you’re in Casco Viejo, do yourself a favour and book into the American Trade Hotel. You can practically see the restaurant from the balcony rooms at the front. Vamos!
American Trade Hotel,
Boulevard 1,
Plaza Herrera,
Casco Viejo,
Ciudad de Panamá.
